15 thin Giant Fruit Bartlett pear tree cuttings rooting grafting Great producer

$10.99 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store nice.old.man
(1524) 98.6%,

Location: King George, Virginia
Ships to: US,
Item: 114615236568

All returns accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted
Tree:Tree
Non-Domestic Product:No
Type:Fruits & Fruit Trees
Custom Bundle:No
Modified Item:No

There is something nice and special about the people who love plants Grow your Own Healthy Organic Food!.*.*. Welcome to our Beautiful World of Gardening! . *.*. Our garden is 100% organic. We do not use any chemicals You will receive:15 cuttings of Bartlett pear tree, known also as Williams’ pear in Europe This particular tree produces giant (very large size) fruit as shown in the photos. The fruit is delicious (recently, I bought Bartlett pears from a store – they were expensive, yellow, much smaller than my pears, and they had an unimpressive taste). Each cutting is 6-7 inches in length. No roots.Cuttings are semi-hardwood, their diameter is The cuttings are semi-hardwood, their diameter is approx. 1/8″ to 1/4″. This tree is producing a large number of great tasting pears! Should grow well in Zones 4-9. These will be cut from our mature tree the day of shipping to you and will be wrapped in moist paper. Use them for rooting your own trees and grafting. This is one of the best varieties of pears!World Famous Favorite Bartlett Pear Delicious Pears Fast Growing Small Tree Long Lived Self-Fruitful Keeps Well In StorageNothing quite compares to the Bartlett Pear. Produced from a deciduous tree with ornamental features, the Bartlett Pear (Pyrus ‘Bartlett’) is delicious, juicy, and oh-so-sweet.Also known as Williams’ pear in Europe, the Bartlett is one of the most popular pears in the world. Its origins could go as far back as the late 1400s, making this amazing tree a classic favorite. Its exceptional fruit and overall heartiness makes it a favorite for experienced gardeners and amateurs alike.Bartlett Pear trees are fast-growing, meaning you won’t have to wait long for your first harvest. The tree also is generally long-lived.Bartlett Pear trees are versatile, faring well in agricultural, suburban and urban environments. Urban pollution doesn’t seem to be a problem for this amazing fruit tree.Because it is self-fruitful, you can grow just one and still wind up with a harvest of high-quality pears. But you’ll get a larger harvest if you plant with another tree nearby as a pollination partner.Clusters of tiny white blossoms emerge from the Bartlett Pear tree during springtime. How exciting to pluck one of the delicious pears from your very own tree.Bartlett Pears are have a round, bell shape, and a golden-green skin that holds juicy sweetness inside. Its crisp flesh is a favorite to use for cooking and baking.The Bartlett pear is a beautiful tree with exceptional fruit. The fruit keeps well in storage, and is prized for use in preserves, tarts and other dishes. Of course, it also tastes great right off the tree! Bartlett is an outstanding choice for a lovely tree that also provides an ample harvest. Order our healthy trees, with extensive root systems, and get a head’s start on your next crop of wonderful Bartlett Pears! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~From the Internet – how to Root a Cutting from a Pear Tree With their relatively small stature and edible fruit, pear trees (Pyrus communis) make a suitable addition to home orchards within U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. They are most commonly propagated from rootstock grafting, although cultivars such as “Old Home” will also grow from hardwood cuttings taken in late autumn. Most pear tree cuttings will root if pretreated and kept under controlled conditions. However, many will fail despite adequate care, so it is best to start multiple pear cuttings at once to ensure that at least one will survive. 1Prepare a rooting container before gathering the pear tree cuttings. Fill a 1-gallon nursery container with a mixture of 6 parts milled peat and 1 part perlite. Soak the mix with water and let it sit for 20 minutes.2Make the cut one-quarter inch below a leaf node, at a 45-degree angle. 3Pour a small amount of 0.2-percent IBA rooting hormone talc onto a sheet of newspaper. Press the severed end of each cutting into the powder. Gently flick the stem to knock loose the excess. Discard the remaining powder.4Insert the hormone-coated ends of the cuttings into the prepared rooting container. Space the pear cuttings at least 4 inches apart. Press them into the peat mixture until they are half buried.5Drizzle water around the cuttings to settle the peat. Press the surface gently to increase contact between the cuttings and the moistened media.6Set the nursery container on a warming mat inside a lightly shaded cold frame. Set the temperature on the warming mat to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Lower the temperature to 65 F at night.7Check the moisture level in the peat mixture daily. Add water when it feels barely damp in the top 2 inches. Do not allow the mixture to dry out completely, since peat is difficult to remoisten once dry.8Mist the pear cuttings twice daily using a spray bottle or garden hose. Lightly coat the stems in a fine mist without making them dripping wet since the peat will absorb the moisture and may become too damp.9Test for roots in three to four weeks by lightly pulling on the base of the pear cuttings. Transplant them into individual 1-gallon containers filled with potting soil two weeks after rooting. Things You Will Need1-gallon nursery containersMilled peatPerliteBypass shears0.2 percent indolebutyric acid (IBA) rooting hormone It is important to make sure that the cutting develop roots before leaves. This is why I plant my cuttings in clear plastic cups (or clear plastic soda bottles) – to see the roots. Sometimes cuttings develop leaves only (no roots), — these plants usually do not survive. This unfortunate development takes place when the cuttings were placed near bright light. I prefer darker places in my room to stimulate growth of roots first, not leaves. When I see ROOTS developed and some young leaves – I move the seedlings to a sunnier location on window sill. If the weather is warm (no risk of frost) – I move these seedlings to a shade outside. Placing them too soon under direct light is risky – the sunlight will kill the leaves. Young seedlings need 2-3 weeks in the shade to adjust to the natural light. I wanted to share some of my experiences with these cuttings. Experiment #22. Picture number 4.In June 2017 I sent crepe myrtle cuttings to my customer. The cuttings were wrapped in a dump paper and plastic. Something was wrong with his adddress and 12 days later the package came back. I opened the package and I saw small sprouts. Then I placed the cuttings in water, and in 1 week I saw this 1-inch long white root. I planted the cutting in a pot with soft wet soil. ************************************************************************************ Experimentation with cuttings is an excellent therapy. I am one of those who believe that people need plants. People need to see green leaves, and they want to be happy doing simple things and accomplishing what they can every day. In addition, this hobby can be profitable – you can grow seedlings and sell them several months later. We can make this planet a little bit greener, cleaner, and healthier! My favorite method for rooting involves a clear plastic container (Like a shoe box from Lowes or a clear-plastic container for cakes) and live moss from the nearby woods. There is an opinion that live moss has anti-mold properties. Also, it is easy to place layers of moss – like clumps or “shelves” with plenty of humid air in between – and then to place cuttings. It is easier and safer to lift the clumps of moss without damaging fragile young roots – when you inspect the cuttings periodically. Horizontal placement of the cuttings often leads to several roots growing at the cutting ends and in the middle, potentially producing 2-3 plants from one cutting. I keep the box at the room temperature, 5-6 ft away from windows. Last several photos illustrate the moss, and roots growing at one end or both ends, and even in the middle. Some people call this horizontal+live moss method “simplified” aeroponics (Wikipedia: aeroponics is the process of growing plants in an air or mist environment without the use of soil or an aggregate medium). Recently I decided to use very short, 3-3.5″ long, cuttings. My experiments with short fig cuttings were surprisingly successful: those short 3-3.5″ cuttings produced roots at the ends and even in the middle! I did not use any rooting hormone, and based on what I have read, rooting hormone may or may not contribute to the success. When I see approx. 1” long white roots, I gently move the cutting to a “pot” made of a clear plastic water bottle with 3-4 holes on the bottom. Clear plastic allows me to see the growing roots. I use regular potting soil, used coffee grounds and even used leaves of mint after drinking mint tea, offering overall loose soil for the roots to propagate. I can see air gaps in the soil (avocado roots seem to like these cavities), and the roots rapidly growing in this porous light-weight “soil”. Normally I place those plastic bottles with rooted cuttings in larger clear plastic containers like Sterlite 55 – 65″ storage totes. I spray some water on my plants and keep these large containers closed. This creates a nice, warm humid environment, so I do not have to worry about watering my young plants too often. Some people prefer other, direct methods for rooting. They put cuttings 2″ deep in the soil and then place a clear plastic bag on top of the pot with the cuttings. I believe that 2″ deep is not the best. When I use this method – I plant my cuttings deeper, so only 2″ of their tops are above the soil level. One reason is to keep the most of the cutting surface in the moist soil. Another reason – is that I saw roots growing in the middle of the cuttings. I never tried heating pads. I know that some people successfully use the back top portion of refrigerators for heating of their cuttings. However, I found an “opposite” … when I placed cuttings in moist potting soil and left it sitting in the unheated garage (meaning cooler temperature and stable moisture level due to very slow evaporation during rather mild winter in Virginia) – many cuttings produced roots. This is just as another simple idea for those who likes experimenting. I am trying to stay away from what people do with my cuttings. One reason – is that every day I have too many things to do, with little time to keep responding to emails. The second reason is that when rooting does not go well – some buyers tend to blame the seller, and in the past they asked me for their money back, saying that my instructions were wrong, “I followed your instructions and the cuttings did not produce roots!” In summary, different people use different rooting methods – from dump paper in a zip-lock bag placed on top of refrigerator to a sophisticated ultrasonic fog system. I can’t provide advice and/or take any responsibility for what my buyers do with my cuttings or how they perform rooting, grafting, etc. And unfortunately, my name is not Rockefeller, meaning that I can’t refund every unsuccessful rooting experiment. Thank you for your understanding and good luck to you! Please click on the “see other items” button on top right side of the ad. Will be delivered from Virginia Your Positive Feedback will Keep me in the Business

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